When it comes to shaving, the right tools make all the difference. A sharp razor, maintained with premium sharpening stones like the Ardennes-Coticule, can help you achieve a flawless shave while avoiding skin irritation. To gain expert insights into sharpening and traditional shaving, we turned to Stijn De Sutter, a passionate barber and owner of barbershop and academy Romain Gent, known for his craftsmanship and love of classic shaving techniques."

 In this interview, he shares three crucial tips for irritation-free grooming—and why a high-quality razor kit is worth the investment.

Stijn, how does a sharp razor help prevent skin irritation?
Using a sharp razor helps prevent skin irritation by ensuring a cleaner and smoother shave. For example, when using a fixed-blade straight razor, you can take larger, more even strokes, which reduces pressure on the skin. This allows the razor to glide smoothly over the skin without pulling or scraping, which are common causes of irritation like redness or razor burn.

When shaving with a straight razor, it’s important to hold the blade correctly and make long, controlled strokes. This ensures the razor cuts the hairs in a smooth motion without having to go over the same area multiple times. The better you do this, the gentler it is on the skin, as less friction on the skin reduces the chances of irritation. The less steel dragged across the skin, the better it is for the skin. That’s the magic of a fixed-blade straight razor.

Sharpening a straight razor on the yellow Coticule stones offers a unique sharpening process. These stones contain garnets with as many as 12 angles. This makes the edge of the razor exceptionally sharp. At the same time, the edge becomes softer, making it easier to cut through hairs with less skin damage. Using these stones contributes to a much more comfortable shaving experience and delivers an efficient and smoother result.

Looking for the best sharpening stone for your razor? Check out our guide on selecting the right sharpening stone for more details on choosing the perfect stone for your shaving needs.

What’s your first tip for maintaining a sharp razor?
After shaving with a fixed-blade straight razor, it’s essential to practice good stropping techniques to keep the edge sharp for as long as possible. Regularly using a strop ensures the blade edge remains smooth and sharp, significantly extending the razor’s lifespan.

It’s recommended to coat the blade with a high-quality oil, such as neatsfoot oil, after use. Neatsfoot oil has the correct acidity level and helps protect the steel when the razor is not in use. Always store the razor in a dry, well-ventilated place to prevent rust or other damage.

If you notice the razor doesn’t feel the same after the last stropping session, take a step back and sharpen it for about 10 minutes under running water on a yellow Coticule stone. This refreshes the edge. Follow up with the leather strop afterward.

By carefully following this technique, the razor will maintain optimal performance, ensuring your shaving experience remains comfortable and effective. Strop the razor before and after every shave. Stropping generates heat, causing the steel to expand slightly, which drives moisture out of the steel’s fine edge. This avoids microscopic rust formation. So, don’t forget to strop!

Explore our handpicked selection of Ardennes-Coticule stones to find the ideal sharpening kit for your straight razor.

Can you share a tip for avoiding irritation?
Good preparation is essential for a comfortable and irritation-free shave. Applying a warm towel is an important step, preferably twice before shaving, which takes about 5 minutes. The priority is not the towel’s temperature but the moisture. This moisture is absorbed by the skin and hairs, causing the hairs to swell and become easier to shave.

Shaving after a shower is highly recommended since the warmth relaxes the skin and nerves, making the shaving process more pleasant. However, moisture remains the most crucial factor.

A good shaving soap with plenty of moisture is ideal. The function of shaving soap is to lower the pH of the beard hairs and lift them, giving them small hooks. By opening the scales of the hairs, they “catch” more easily on the straight razor. It’s crucial to ensure the lather contains enough moisture. Shaving with dried-out lather can irritate the skin and lead to discomfort and irritation. It’s a “wet shave” after all.

What further enhances the shaving experience is the use of a honing stone, such as the yellow Coticule. The unique structure of this stone softens the edge of the razor, significantly improving the shaving experience. Using the yellow Coticule not only keeps the razor perfectly sharp but also delivers an exceptionally smooth and comfortable result.

A common mistake many men make is applying aftershave directly after shaving. It’s important to let the skin cool first so the pores, which have been opened by the heat, can close. This prevents dirt from entering the skin. The skin should feel fresh and cold before applying aftershave. Always choose an alcohol-free aftershave, as alcohol dries out the skin and can cause irritation.

By carefully following these steps, combined with the magic of the yellow Coticule, you’ll notice a significant difference in the results of your shave.

What’s the best razor for sensitive skin?
Choosing the best razor for sensitive skin is a complex question. It’s important to understand that almost everyone has sensitive skin, especially when it comes to shaving.

A “full wedge” blade absorbs vibrations best, as it is completely solid. This means fewer vibrations are transmitted to the skin, reducing the risk of irritation. However, these razors are hard to find and have a major drawback: if you have a scar or uneven skin, the blade can easily catch, causing skin damage. These razors date back to the late 19th century, before the invention of hollow-ground razors, and their steel quality was also lower.

On the other hand, an extra-hollow razor is not recommended, as it is very thin and less effective at absorbing vibrations.

My preference is for a more balanced blade shape, such as a quarter-hollow or half-hollow straight razor with a sturdy spine. That’s why, with ROMAIN, we chose a straight razor with these qualities. The round tip further facilitates the shaving process by eliminating the risk of accidentally catching the tip on the skin. These razors are easy to maintain and simple to sharpen. Sharpening is straightforward with an all-in-one honing kit.

A shaving routine consists of 80% preparation, 10% shaving, and 10% aftercare. Proper preparation ensures you achieve the best possible results, regardless of the type of razor you use.

Ready to upgrade your shave? 

Maintaining a sharp razor is crucial for achieving a smooth, irritation-free shave. With Ardennes-Coticule stones and proper care, you can enjoy a professional-level shaving experience right at home. Explore our exclusive collab with Stijn de Sutter for the all-in-one honing kit and start upgrading your grooming routine today.